The three blended yarns most often bought from India are PC, which is polyester-cotton, PV, which is polyester-viscose, and cotton-lycra, which is a core-spun yarn with a cotton sheath wrapped around an elastane core. PC and PV are intimate blends, where the two staple fibres are mixed before spinning, while cotton-lycra is a core-spun structure made on a ring frame fitted with an elastane feed. Each solves a different problem for the fabric maker, and each has its own specification points.
Blending is done to balance cost, handle, strength and performance. Polyester brings strength, dimensional stability and low cost, cotton brings absorbency and comfort, viscose brings drape and bright colour, and elastane brings stretch and recovery. The blend ratio is written with the dominant fibre first and expressed by weight, for example 65/35 PC meaning 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton.
The common blends
- PC, polyester-cotton: typical ratios are 65/35 and 52/48, used in shirting, workwear, uniforms, bed sheets and knitted t-shirts. The blend is strong, washes well and is cheaper than cotton.
- CVC, chief value cotton: a PC blend where cotton is the larger share, often 60/40 cotton-polyester, giving a more cotton-like handle for knitwear.
- PV, polyester-viscose: typical ratios are 65/35 and 80/20, used in suiting, trousers, uniforms and some dress fabrics. Viscose gives drape and dye depth while polyester keeps the fabric stable.
- Cotton-lycra: usually 2 to 7 percent elastane by weight, with the rest cotton, used in stretch denim, chinos, leggings and fitted knits. Elastane is the generic fibre name, and the trade uses lycra loosely to mean any elastane core.
- Other blends worth knowing: polyester-cotton-elastane, viscose-elastane, cotton-modal and cotton-linen.
Specification points for intimate blends
State the blend ratio with a tolerance, the count, and whether the cotton component is carded or combed. Ask how the blend ratio is verified, since the accepted method is a chemical dissolution test that removes one fibre and weighs the remainder, following an ISO or AATCC-type procedure. For PV, specify the viscose fibre type and lustre, as some buyers need a matt finish for uniforms. For PC, ask for the polyester fibre denier and whether it is a low-pill grade.
Specification points for core-spun yarn
For cotton-lycra, state the elastane denier, the draft applied to the elastane during spinning, and the elastane percentage in the finished yarn. Check that the core is fully covered, because exposed elastane dyes differently and shows as grinning in dark fabrics. Ask about yarn relaxation and storage, since core-spun yarn should be rested before weaving or knitting and the cones should not be stored for long periods under tension.
How Creston & Co helps
We visit blending and spinning mills to see how fibre is mixed and whether elastane feeds are set up properly, then send sealed samples to an NABL-accredited lab for blend ratio, count and strength verification. We supervise loading, send weekly updates, and keep one approved spinner and one backup for each blend. If you are choosing between blends for a new programme, a free 20-minute sourcing review is a good first step.