Kundan is a traditional Indian way of setting stones, in which each stone is held in place with layers of highly refined gold foil rather than metal prongs. The word kundan refers to that pure gold. The style grew in the royal courts of north India, and Rajasthan remains its traditional home.
Imitation kundan, made in large volumes in Rajkot and elsewhere, recreates the look with glass stones and gold-plated brass or copper, at a fraction of the cost.
How traditional kundan is made
- A gold frame is made with hollow settings for each stone.
- The settings are filled with lac, a natural resin, to support the stones.
- Stones are pressed into place and edged with thin strips of pure gold foil.
- The back of the piece is often decorated with meenakari enamel.
How imitation kundan is made
- The frame is cast or stamped in brass or copper.
- Flat-cut glass stones are backed with metallic foil to give them reflection and colour.
- Stones are set into the frame with lac, wax or adhesive, and the edges are finished to look like foil work.
- The piece is gold plated, often with a matte or antique finish, and decorated with beads, pearls or drops.
What to check on samples
- Stones sit flat, are evenly backed and do not move when pressed.
- There is no visible glue or lac around the edges.
- The foil behind the stones is even, with no dark patches.
- The plating is even on the front and back.
- Drops and beads are attached firmly with good wire or thread.
Care and durability
Kundan stones are not waterproof. Water and perfume can get behind the stones, loosen the setting and dull the foil. Include simple care instructions with every piece: keep it dry, store it flat in a box or pouch, and wipe it with a soft cloth. Kundan is one of the more fragile styles in shipping, so ask for individual boxes or firm padding.
What this means for a buyer
Kundan sells strongly for weddings and festivals, especially to the South Asian diaspora. See which styles sell best in each market before you plan a range.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We visit workshops, check stone setting and plating on samples and bulk goods, and supervise packing. Start with a free sourcing review.