Jadau is a traditional Indian technique in which stones are set by pressing them into softened gold, without prongs or claws. It developed in royal workshops in Rajasthan and Gujarat and is closely linked to kundan and polki jewellery.
Imitation jadau keeps the look, rich clusters of stones set flush in a gold-coloured frame, but uses brass or alloy bases, glass or synthetic stones, and foil or adhesive to hold and brighten them.
Jadau, kundan and polki: how they relate
- Jadau is the setting technique: embedding stones in metal without claws.
- Kundan refers to highly refined gold foil used in that setting, and in trade it also names the style of glass-stone jewellery made this way.
- Polki refers to uncut diamonds. Imitation polki uses glass or synthetic stones cut to look uncut.
- In everyday trade the three names overlap, so ask for photos and a sample rather than relying on the label.
How imitation jadau is made
The frame is cast or hand-built in brass or alloy, then plated in a gold tone, often an antique or matte gold. Stones are backed with coloured or mirrored foil to add brilliance, then set in a filling compound, traditionally lac, or glued into place.
Much of this work is done by hand, so pieces vary slightly. The skill of the setter decides whether stones sit level, stay put and catch the light evenly.
What to check
- Stone security: press gently on stones and flex the piece slightly. Nothing should move.
- Foil: look for dark patches or peeling foil behind stones, which shows as dull spots.
- Back finish: the reverse should be clean and smooth, with no sharp edges or excess glue.
- Weight: heavy necklaces need strong links and fastenings, and should be comfortable to wear.
What this means for a buyer
Imitation jadau sells well for weddings and festivals, especially in diaspora markets. Because it is hand-set, quality depends heavily on the workshop, so see work in person or through a trusted agent. Our guide to auditing a jewellery workshop lists what to look at.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We visit Rajkot workshops, check stone setting and finish, have samples tested at NABL-accredited labs and supervise packing. Ask for a free sourcing review.