American diamond, usually shortened to AD, is the name the Indian jewellery trade uses for jewellery set with cubic zirconia (CZ) stones. The stones are synthetic, made in a lab, and cut to look like diamonds. They are not diamonds and do not come from America; the name is simply a long-standing Indian market term.
AD jewellery is one of the largest categories made in Rajkot, from everyday studs to heavy bridal necklace sets.
What the stones are
Cubic zirconia is a crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is hard enough for everyday jewellery, sparkles strongly under light and can be made colourless or in almost any colour. It is heavier than diamond and slightly softer, so it can scratch and lose its sharp edges over years of wear.
How AD jewellery is made
- The base is usually brass or copper, cast or stamped into the design.
- Stones are set by prong, bezel, pave or channel settings; cheaper pieces use glue.
- The piece is plated, most often in rhodium for a white look or gold for a warm look.
- Coloured CZ, such as ruby, emerald or sapphire shades, is often mixed with white stones.
Who buys it
AD jewellery sells to brides and wedding guests, to the South Asian diaspora and to fashion customers who want a diamond look at a fraction of the cost. Rhodium-plated AD pieces also suit Western minimalist ranges, such as solitaire studs, tennis bracelets and halo rings.
What decides quality
- The grade and cut of the stones, which drives the sparkle.
- How the stones are set: prong-set stones last longer than glued ones.
- The plating thickness and colour, especially rhodium on white pieces.
- Finish behind the stones, which shows in close-up photos.
Describe it correctly
Outside India, the term "American diamond" can mislead customers. On listings and labels, call the stones cubic zirconia or CZ and never suggest they are diamonds. Our article on imitation, fashion and artificial jewellery covers naming in more detail.
What this means for a buyer
Ask makers for the stone grade, the setting method and the plating, and compare samples under strong light before you choose.
Creston & Co works for buyers only, for a fixed fee agreed in writing. We visit workshops, check stone setting and plating, have samples tested at NABL-accredited labs and supervise packing. Start with a free sourcing review.