Your eyes and hands in India · Est. 2019 · Replies within one working day

Sourcing organic cotton from India: a buyer's path

Where organic cotton from India comes from, how it moves from fibre to fabric, and the certificate checks European buyers should make.

· 3 min read · Creston & Co

To source organic cotton from India, buy through a chain that is certified at every stage, and ask for the transaction certificate for each lot. Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, but the claim only holds if each processor holds a valid certificate.

India grows organic cotton in several states, and certified spinners and weavers turn it into yarn and fabric. For European buyers, organic cotton also means documents, because a supplier's word is not enough.

How does organic cotton move from fibre to fabric?

The chain has several certified steps.

  • Farm: growers are certified under an organic standard, often with a third-party certifier.
  • Ginning: the ginner must keep organic lint separate from conventional lint.
  • Spinning, weaving or knitting: each unit needs its own certificate and records.
  • Dyeing and finishing: chemicals must meet the standard, such as GOTS for processing.
  • Garment making: the cutting and sewing unit is certified if the garment is sold as GOTS.

Which certificates should you ask for?

Two schemes are common for textiles. GOTS covers the whole processing chain and labelling. The Organic Content Standard, OCS, verifies the amount of organic fibre in the product but does not cover processing chemicals. GOTS, OCS and OEKO-TEX compared explains the differences.

Each lot needs a transaction certificate issued by the certifier. Transaction certificates for organic textiles explains what it shows. Never accept a scope certificate alone as proof that a specific lot is organic.

How do you verify the claim?

Check each certificate on the certifier's or scheme's public database. Match the company name, address, scope, products and validity dates. See how to verify organic cotton claims and verifying a textile certificate with the certifier.

Ask the mill for a mass balance: organic fibre bought, yarn made and yarn sold. If the numbers do not reconcile, the supplier is selling more than it can have made.

What about European buyers?

Organic labels on textiles are mainly voluntary and scheme-based, but claims must not mislead customers. Rules on green claims are changing in the EU, so check current requirements with your legal adviser or national authority. Organic cotton usually costs more than conventional, and volumes are limited by crop size, so book early.

Yarn availability is covered in organic cotton yarn from Gujarat spinners. We do not publish figures. A real quote needs your product and volume.

What are the risks to watch for?

The main risk is a false or recycled claim. Cases of organic claims that could not be backed by the volume of certified cotton grown have been reported in the industry, so ask for reconciliation records. Another risk is contamination from conventional cotton at ginning or spinning if the units are not separated.

Also watch the timeline. Organic cotton is harvested once a year, and spinners buy before the season ends. If you need yarn in a particular month, confirm the stock with the mill early.

Next step

We find certified mills, check certificates against the certifier's records, have lots tested and supervise loading. To discuss an organic programme, book a free sourcing review.

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