To check fabric quality on incoming rolls, compare the delivered fabric with the approved sample and the written specification on seven points: packing and labels, roll count and length, width, weight, visual defects, shade and hand, and lab results for shrinkage and colourfastness. This fabric quality checklist works for most woven fabric.
Do the checks before the fabric is cut. Once it is cut, a claim becomes hard to prove. Record every result on one sheet per lot, with the roll numbers, so that you can show the supplier exactly which rolls failed and why.
1. Packing and labels
Check the cartons or wrapping for damage, water stains and mould. Check each roll label against the packing list: design, colour, lot, roll number and length. Photograph any damage before you open anything else.
Note the date, the container number and the condition of the seal when the goods arrive. If a claim follows, this record is the first thing the supplier and any insurer will ask for.
2. Roll count and length
Count the rolls and measure a sample against the stated length. Short rolls cost you in cutting waste. Check the roll ends as well, since joins and ends of piece are where mills hide short or faulty metres. Weigh a few rolls and compare with the packing list, because a weight gap often shows a length gap. Agree the allowed length tolerance in the contract.
3. Width
Measure the usable width, selvedge to selvedge or between the stenter marks, at several points along the roll. See how fabric width is measured and standard widths. Compare it with the specified width and tolerance.
Width matters more than it looks. A few centimetres short on every roll lowers the cutting yield on the whole order, and the loss shows up as a higher cost per garment.
4. Weight
Cut a measured sample and weigh it to calculate GSM. Use a calibrated scale and a template. How to test fabric GSM explains the method, and what GSM means shows the allowed variation.
5. Visual defects
Inspect a sample of rolls on an inspection frame under good light. The usual method scores defects by size. See the four-point fabric inspection system and how many points per 100 square yards is acceptable. Common faults are listed in fabric defects and their causes.
6. Shade and hand
Compare each roll with the approved sample under the agreed light. Check for variation across a roll and between rolls in a lot. Look for banding, as described in shade banding and roll grouping. Feel the fabric for stiffness, smell and finish.
7. Lab tests
Send a sample to a laboratory for the tests you specified. These usually include shrinkage, colourfastness to washing, rubbing and light, and tear or tensile strength. See the shrinkage test and 3 percent tolerance, colourfastness and textile tests before shipment. Read the report as shown in reading a lab certificate.
Next step
The better route is to inspect before shipment. We find and audit mills, check samples and documents, have lots tested, and supervise production and loading, so problems are found in India. Book a free sourcing review.