Embroidery on fabric is decorative stitching applied to a woven or knitted base after it has been dyed or printed, using thread, sequins, cord, beads or metallic zari. Surat is one of India's largest centres for machine embroidery on synthetic fabric, and the main types made there are multi-head schiffli embroidery, computerised flat embroidery, sequin work, cord work and zari work. Most of it is produced on polyester georgette, chiffon, satin and net, which is why it sits alongside the city's weaving and printing trade.
For a buyer the distinction that matters is between all-over embroidery, sold by the metre as a fabric, and placement embroidery, applied to a cut panel or a finished garment. Surat is strong in the first. The second is usually done by garment units, some of which are also in Surat but many of which are elsewhere.
Main embroidery types
- Schiffli: a very wide multi-head machine that embroiders a continuous design across the full width of the fabric. It is the standard route for all-over embroidered fabric and for cutwork and eyelet styles.
- Computerised flat embroidery: multi-head machines that stitch a digitised design in a repeating layout. It is flexible, handles many thread colours and suits borders and panel layouts as well as all-over patterns.
- Sequin work: machine attachments that stitch sequins of one or more sizes into the design, often combined with thread embroidery. Sequin fabric is heavy and needs care in handling and washing.
- Cord work: a thicker cord or tape is couched onto the fabric to give a raised outline, common in bridal and occasion wear.
- Zari work: metallic or metallised thread, now usually polyester-based rather than real metal, used for the gold and silver effects typical of Indian occasion wear.
What to specify
Give the embroiderer a digitised design file or a clear artwork from which one can be made, the stitch density you expect, the thread type and colours, and the base fabric. Stitch count drives both the look and the cost, so ask for a stitch count with every quote. Agree the base fabric separately and confirm that it has been heat set, otherwise the embroidery can pucker when the fabric relaxes.
Ask for an embroidered swatch before bulk, in the same way as a print strike-off. Check thread tension, the finish on the back of the fabric, removal of backing paper or stabiliser and whether loose threads have been trimmed. For sequin and zari work, test a sample through your washing and rubbing routine, because metallic finishes can tarnish and sequins can lose colour.
Lead time and quantity
Embroidery adds to the lead time of the base fabric rather than replacing it, so plan for the dyed or printed fabric first and then the embroidery run. The minimum order quantity (MOQ) is usually set by the machine loading and is often lower than for rotary printing. Output per machine per day is modest for dense designs, so a large order may be spread across several units.
How Creston & Co helps
We visit the embroidery units as well as the weaving and process houses, check machine condition and how finished fabric is handled, and send sealed samples to an NABL-accredited lab where washing or rubbing performance matters. We inspect rolls before loading and keep an approved supplier plus a backup for each embroidery type. A free 20-minute sourcing review is a good first step if embroidered fabric is new to your range.